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Splitting to Split

26 Jul

I just couldn’t resist the incredibly non-original pun. Split is beautiful, it was our lunner stop on the way to Zadar, and it was beautiful. The ruins were incredible, the food was delicious.  The streets were a bit crowded, but I would love to spend a full day there.




Tržište: Market

9 Jul

Alright, so first two admin things. 1) Totally curious to know what you all think of the new layout. I like the colors better, but I think it is harder to navigate. Hmm. 2) Sorry I didn’t post and made people (mom) nervous! I was feeling under the weather the past couple of days, so I didn’t have any adventures to post about! I’m starting to feel better though now 🙂

Today, I felt good enough to go on an adventure to the Market (pronunciation guide to follow), but before that I had to get some espresso in me. So, I went to Cordoba Cafe, the cafe that is just outside of BBI, drank a macchiato and loooved it. I especially loved the elder gentleman across and to the right of me who decided to start off his day with gelato! Yep, he had a giant thing of gelato served in what we would consider to be a novelty, 1950’s style ice cream glass. You know, a cone, with the top folding out and some ridges along the whole thing that, when they reach the part that folds out, look kind of like flower petals.

I think this is an instance where I won’t pull the “when in Rome” card.

Now for the super fun stuff: MARKET or Tržište!!!

This farmer's market puts even Portland to shame

Okay, so I’m sure you’re all wondering how in the HELL “Tržište” is pronounced. Here’s what I’ve gathered so far: the two consonants may be together, but put an “eh” between the the “t” and the “r”. Now for the “ž”: it’s actually pronounced like the “s” in treasure. Got it? cool. Now, the “i” is always pronounced like “ee” (as in feet… or italian), and “š” is “sh”. So, phonetically, it is kind of like: tehrzhishte. YAY! You speak Bosnian!

This market is incredible. First of all, it is GIGANTIC. Like, absurdly huge. Secondly, it has everything. At this market, I easily could have bought tomatoes, red bell peppers, a t-shirt, a dress, chicken, a cow’s head, a necklace, and feminine hygiene products. Right? riiight? What I actually bought were: red bell peppers, tomatoes, mushrooms, raspberries, eggs and chicken. It’s also worth noting that I got all that for about 12 km, which is about 9 USD. AMAZING.

On my way back to the apartment, I grabbed a loaf of bread from a small bakery that, if I was in Paris, I would call a boulangerie, but I can’t remember what they are called here.Oh well. Point is, I get a delicious, ridiculously cheap lunch today!

Might be feeling up for the hike tomorrow. It sounds AMAZING…. even if it is going to be 90 degrees!

Also, I’d like to introduce you to my favorite neighbors:

My favorite neighbors!

You can’t see it very clearly in the photo, but in that birds nest are at least two baby birds. Can you make them out? They have little strips of white just below their tiny little beaks 🙂 I never would have seen them except, three days ago, when I was returning home from sushi and starting to feel like I might be getting a cold, I saw the mother feed them. Whenever I see a bit of nature nurture like that, I feel a little blessed.

Beauty All Around

5 Jul

The first post that will be all photos because today was virtually uneventful… except that I stayed on budget after actually making a budget last night!

(Cue the “oooohs” and “aaahhhhhhs”)

The Bridge

5 Jul

For my fellow political history buffs, this is a picture of the bridge near which Archduke Franz Ferdinand was killed. He was killed on the right bank of the river.

I am so in love with how close this bridge is to me. I took this picture on the way back from my back-after-work bus stop.

Also, I heartily apologize for the beautiful history here being disgraced by the McDonald’s sign. Even history can’t stop modern imperialism, huh?

On a related note, Happy Belated Fourth of July!

Cevapčići and Sangria (not together, maybe next time)

3 Jul

Cevapcici is probably the quintessential traditional food of Sarajevo, and as I passed by a place in Old Town serving it on the way to meet Rachel at BBI, I knew I had to get some today. After working for a bit (well, she worked), we went back to that same place in Old Town. Totally worth the 10/15 minute trek.

Cevapcici is grilled minced meat wrapped in, or just served with, Lepinja (a white bread that is somewhat similar to hummus) and is a legacy of the Ottoman Empire. Bon appetit, or as they say in Bosnia, Prijatno!

Cevapcici is delicious. Recommended to meat eaters!

So, after getting lunch, Rachel and I had delicious gelato (hazelnut is my favorite!). After walking around Old Town for a bit longer and doing some window shopping, we met up with Sonja, one of the program directors, and she showed us this seriously cooky place. It totally reminds me of Portland, especially that crazy dessert place (Kelsey, what is the name of it??)!!

Totally crazy looking, and the sangria was delicious!

Tiny Facts and Even Smaller Hookahs

3 Jul

Here are four things you couldn’t know about Sarajevo before coming to Sarajevo!

1. It really is a mesh of two worlds. So those of you who may have believed that it was totally unsafe and an almost-third world country that is still rebuilding after the war, you were only right about half of the city! Here’s a look at the other half – in fact, this first picture is where I am right now: Torte i to cafe!

Torte i to Cafe. As cute as its name!

Ferhadija Street and the view from my morning espresso cafe! Mmm... gelato.

2. On the other hand, there are definitely beggars in Sarajevo. Had my first encounter today. But did you know that they can be so cute and that they don’t go away after you say “ingleski” (english) over and over? This little girl, she was devious. She actually followed one couple around for a bit.

She stood by my table for such a long time - her face was so cute, it was hard to say no to!

3. Hookahs can be made to be SO TINY! This is a part of the Old Town (Stari Grad) that I hadn’t ventured into before – the Old Market. From what I’ve gathered, Stari Grad is one of the most important areas in the history of Sarajevo. Cool fact: the Old Town Market sector, where I was, is where the city was first founded by the Ottomans in the 15th century. The Eastern half of Stari Grad still showcases Ottoman architecture, while the Western half has an Austria-Hungary look.

How would you use these things?

More of the Old Market (images actually taken in the same spot, the first to the left, the second (Pigeon Square) taken to the right.

4. Tea cups don’t have to be dainty. In fact, I doubt they were dainty originally. Oh, the Brits.

I would love to bring home one of these tea sets. Beautiful!

Red Roofs, Kafa and Court

1 Jul

I’ve only been here a day and already I am so enamored with this city. The language is beautiful in a way romance languages just can’t lend themselves to, the people are so kind (even the landlord with whom I have a huge language barrier), and the city is incredible.

I copped out my first night and got a pizza (it was delicious), in the centar district of Sarajevo (easy enough translation) which is incredibly close to my apartment and then went with Rachel (my cohort for this trip – another Brandeisian working with the Court this summer) to meet our project supervisor, Mia, at Torte ito, an incredible dessert shop in the BBI shopping center. They each got a dessert, I didn’t (too tired!), but they each gave me a piece: wow. Hardest part of this trip so far has been deciding which is better: the chocolate cheesecake or the brownie cake. Yum!

Then I went to sleep. And not until around 9pm, actually! I’m very proud of myself – I only neglected to give in to jetlag for that long though because my landlord, who only speaks Bosnian, and I were making wildly futile attempts to connect my laptop to the internet. No success last night, but a flatmate, Mohammed, figured that out for me about 15 minutes ago. Huzzah! Success!

Bed in the apartment. Look ma, it's made! (Credit goes to Rachel for that)

That brings us to today! I succeeded in my first solo restaurant attempt! Paris was a good debriefing on cafes in Europe (don’t order at the counter, just sit!) so I got a great cup of espresso with milk at Illy. (Coffee is Kafa in Bosnian)

I know! I went to a place whose name I recognized! Cop out – I promise they will stop soon!

I went to the court for two purposes: first to get reading material from and to meet the American Prosecutor, Erik Larson, and his staff. I got there using the bus with directions I could only just remember from my jetlagged first night. I spent the whole time on the bus splitting my attention between sighting landmarks for my bus stop that had been described to me and adding credit to my international phone so that I could call Rachel and make sure I was on the right bus.

I WAS! No need to worry, parents 🙂 Okay, so, got off the bus at the right stop and went in to meet the Prosecutor. Had to leave my phone and camera with security – so there are no pictures of the inside/immediately outside the Court, sorry International Justice ingenues! I was 20 minutes early because the bus was faster than anticipated, so I waited outside until it was time to call Prosecutor Larson’s office.

But before I could, Max came out. Max works in the Office as a legal researcher/something. He graduated from BC and got into the office thanks to the Boston Mafia (as we’re calling it) which has a ridiculous number of connections there. Max took me in, gave me a little tour of the *cough* ugly *cough* orange building (which looks much better inside), I got research materials, attempted and failed to talk command responsibility with him, and then in-walked the Prosecutor who greeted me, dressed in my cowl-neck shirt and black suit, in cargo shorts and a blue button-down short-sleeved shirt.

Yes, that was his outfit in the courtroom later on. It was just hidden by his robe. You could still see the sneakers though – even if the judges can’t!

Rachel and I then met for lunch and went to this really cute place right by the court and I ordered, what I’m hoping to remember correctly, koshta. On the menu it said “mixed greens with goat cheese on top”, so I was expecting lettuce. Nuh-uh. It was still good though! The “mixed greens” were just cucumber and tomato slices. I got a free bowl of bread with the salad though, so between that the meal was surprisingly filling.

And it’s a good thing too – I would have hated a grumbling stomach to interrupt Court proceedings! Today, my first full day in Bosnia, I got to observe part of a trial against two persons accused of war crimes: Pelemis Momir and Peric Slavko. Today there was expert witness testimony that was damaging to both as it concerned command responsibility and whether or not a Commander is responsible for his troops once they have been dispatched to another site.

This case concerns only actions taken between 9 and 21 July 1995 by the First Batallion, when the accused may have unlawfully detained and summarily executed 1200 Bosniak men and boys.

“Never Again”

After working on cases like that all day, these ridiculous people need to go out. So, we’re going to get a hamburger (YES FOOOD) and drinks at Fenix Pub. I’m meeting Rachel to start walking over there in about 30 minutes.

OH! One more thing about today – on my way back to the apartment from the Court, I got lost. As soon as the bus turned away from the river, I realized that I would have no sense of direction, so I got out and was pretty sure I knew which way to go. I walked past a beautiful park and continued walking for probably 10 minutes and finally saw something familiar – then, being in a familiar area, I decided to take an unfamiliar street.

Bad idea? Not in the slightest! The street led me straight into the Old Town of Sarajevo, where it looks like a miniature, stone version of Main Street at Disneyland. I’ve never seen anything like this before, so please excuse the terrible reference point. The streets are only for pedestrians in this area, the shops are all maybe 8ft tall, and they are crammed together much like the people, who are sitting at cafes that run along the streets. It’s beautiful there and I cannot wait to head back – did I mention it is only a 5 minute walk from the apartment?

What else is only a 5 minute walk?
The bridge where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was killed and WWI was ignited.

BOOM. Political nerd in me is elated 🙂