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Splitting to Split

26 Jul

I just couldn’t resist the incredibly non-original pun. Split is beautiful, it was our lunner stop on the way to Zadar, and it was beautiful. The ruins were incredible, the food was delicious.  The streets were a bit crowded, but I would love to spend a full day there.

 

 

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Tržište: Market

9 Jul

Alright, so first two admin things. 1) Totally curious to know what you all think of the new layout. I like the colors better, but I think it is harder to navigate. Hmm. 2) Sorry I didn’t post and made people (mom) nervous! I was feeling under the weather the past couple of days, so I didn’t have any adventures to post about! I’m starting to feel better though now 🙂

Today, I felt good enough to go on an adventure to the Market (pronunciation guide to follow), but before that I had to get some espresso in me. So, I went to Cordoba Cafe, the cafe that is just outside of BBI, drank a macchiato and loooved it. I especially loved the elder gentleman across and to the right of me who decided to start off his day with gelato! Yep, he had a giant thing of gelato served in what we would consider to be a novelty, 1950’s style ice cream glass. You know, a cone, with the top folding out and some ridges along the whole thing that, when they reach the part that folds out, look kind of like flower petals.

I think this is an instance where I won’t pull the “when in Rome” card.

Now for the super fun stuff: MARKET or Tržište!!!

This farmer's market puts even Portland to shame

Okay, so I’m sure you’re all wondering how in the HELL “Tržište” is pronounced. Here’s what I’ve gathered so far: the two consonants may be together, but put an “eh” between the the “t” and the “r”. Now for the “ž”: it’s actually pronounced like the “s” in treasure. Got it? cool. Now, the “i” is always pronounced like “ee” (as in feet… or italian), and “š” is “sh”. So, phonetically, it is kind of like: tehrzhishte. YAY! You speak Bosnian!

This market is incredible. First of all, it is GIGANTIC. Like, absurdly huge. Secondly, it has everything. At this market, I easily could have bought tomatoes, red bell peppers, a t-shirt, a dress, chicken, a cow’s head, a necklace, and feminine hygiene products. Right? riiight? What I actually bought were: red bell peppers, tomatoes, mushrooms, raspberries, eggs and chicken. It’s also worth noting that I got all that for about 12 km, which is about 9 USD. AMAZING.

On my way back to the apartment, I grabbed a loaf of bread from a small bakery that, if I was in Paris, I would call a boulangerie, but I can’t remember what they are called here.Oh well. Point is, I get a delicious, ridiculously cheap lunch today!

Might be feeling up for the hike tomorrow. It sounds AMAZING…. even if it is going to be 90 degrees!

Also, I’d like to introduce you to my favorite neighbors:

My favorite neighbors!

You can’t see it very clearly in the photo, but in that birds nest are at least two baby birds. Can you make them out? They have little strips of white just below their tiny little beaks 🙂 I never would have seen them except, three days ago, when I was returning home from sushi and starting to feel like I might be getting a cold, I saw the mother feed them. Whenever I see a bit of nature nurture like that, I feel a little blessed.

Beauty All Around

5 Jul

The first post that will be all photos because today was virtually uneventful… except that I stayed on budget after actually making a budget last night!

(Cue the “oooohs” and “aaahhhhhhs”)

Children run scared and more projects for work

4 Jul

Apparently, my death glare is epic. Two boys, most likely 3rd/4th grade range (except the Bosnian equivalent), were mocking a girl who was crying by imitating her. They were being such little monsters. So, I got closer to her than they were, and then glared. I glared into their souls. They walked away.

It gets so. much. better.

After a bit, I started walking towards the elevators to go downstairs and outside of BBI, and the little monsters were there again. I saw them and, upon making eye contact with the clear leader of the two, he ran away from me. Literally.

Kate: 1, Monsters: 0

Also, I got another project today. We have to evaluate the Constitutional Court’s jurisprudence in war crimes appeals cases. In these reports, Rachel and I will have to show that the Court had jurisprudence, in order to do so, we’ll need to show: a) what the jurisprudence of the Court is, b) how this case falls within that jurisprudence, and to show b, we will need to show 1) that the crime committed violates the laws of the BiH constitution and that 2) the requirements relating to the merits of the crime in question in this and other cases that must be met to be tried at the Constitutional Court. For example: torture isn’t always considered a war crime, if it is, it must meet certain factors and part of our job will be identifying what “rules” the court applies in determining when it is/isn’t a war crime. Rachel and I will each be doing this for 6 cases in addition to taking notes for the American Prosecutor and doing rule identification and case summaries for, in my case, two other cases.

Starting to feel like I’m here for an internship!

Cevapčići and Sangria (not together, maybe next time)

3 Jul

Cevapcici is probably the quintessential traditional food of Sarajevo, and as I passed by a place in Old Town serving it on the way to meet Rachel at BBI, I knew I had to get some today. After working for a bit (well, she worked), we went back to that same place in Old Town. Totally worth the 10/15 minute trek.

Cevapcici is grilled minced meat wrapped in, or just served with, Lepinja (a white bread that is somewhat similar to hummus) and is a legacy of the Ottoman Empire. Bon appetit, or as they say in Bosnia, Prijatno!

Cevapcici is delicious. Recommended to meat eaters!

So, after getting lunch, Rachel and I had delicious gelato (hazelnut is my favorite!). After walking around Old Town for a bit longer and doing some window shopping, we met up with Sonja, one of the program directors, and she showed us this seriously cooky place. It totally reminds me of Portland, especially that crazy dessert place (Kelsey, what is the name of it??)!!

Totally crazy looking, and the sangria was delicious!


Tiny Facts and Even Smaller Hookahs

3 Jul

Here are four things you couldn’t know about Sarajevo before coming to Sarajevo!

1. It really is a mesh of two worlds. So those of you who may have believed that it was totally unsafe and an almost-third world country that is still rebuilding after the war, you were only right about half of the city! Here’s a look at the other half – in fact, this first picture is where I am right now: Torte i to cafe!

Torte i to Cafe. As cute as its name!

Ferhadija Street and the view from my morning espresso cafe! Mmm... gelato.

2. On the other hand, there are definitely beggars in Sarajevo. Had my first encounter today. But did you know that they can be so cute and that they don’t go away after you say “ingleski” (english) over and over? This little girl, she was devious. She actually followed one couple around for a bit.

She stood by my table for such a long time - her face was so cute, it was hard to say no to!

3. Hookahs can be made to be SO TINY! This is a part of the Old Town (Stari Grad) that I hadn’t ventured into before – the Old Market. From what I’ve gathered, Stari Grad is one of the most important areas in the history of Sarajevo. Cool fact: the Old Town Market sector, where I was, is where the city was first founded by the Ottomans in the 15th century. The Eastern half of Stari Grad still showcases Ottoman architecture, while the Western half has an Austria-Hungary look.

How would you use these things?

More of the Old Market (images actually taken in the same spot, the first to the left, the second (Pigeon Square) taken to the right.

4. Tea cups don’t have to be dainty. In fact, I doubt they were dainty originally. Oh, the Brits.

I would love to bring home one of these tea sets. Beautiful!

Random thoughts as if this blog was twitter

2 Jul

Of all the posts any of you can feel free to skip, this would be it. It could be entertaining though!

1) Funny moment #15 with the Landlord: My landlord may have called me out on not showering. Hey, I’m intimidated by foreign baths – who knows how to work those things? I was scarred by a frustrating experience in Paris! Anyways, moving on. He definitely came by my door, knocked, and when I opened made some gesture that I interpreted as being “Hey, crazy American girl, don’t you think you might want to wash up one of these days?” I nodded vigorously and asked him to show me how to use it. It was so straight forward – I must look like such a dolt!

2) Pretty sure European showers encourage self-love. Their showers, with the nozzle with the flexible hose so you have to move it around and specifically direct it at various points of your body, encourage you to really look at it and personally take care of it in a way that passive, American showers don’t. Does that make sense? I think it makes sense. I want a European bath in my house.

3) I’m actually only a block away from Old Town Sarajevo. Epic.

Old Town Sarajevo. Beautiful, right?

4) I have no idea how to find a grocery store here, even though I know I’m within 60m of one. Not just any grocery store either, but an international grocery store. It must be hiding from me. For anyone who would suggest google maps, it is no use! Google doesn’t navigate Sarajevo.

5) Espresso is delicious and definitely curbs the appetite 🙂